1979 : The house updates its images with a "high/low" advertising campaign (i.e., jeans and scarves). "It was the real key that opened the door," Dumas will later tell The Washington Post. August: Pandora Luxurye publishes Arthur Elgort's pictures of Nancy Kissinger in China carrying an Herm猫s bag.

"It has been said of Herm猫s," The New York Times reported in 1940, "that it is perhaps the only establishment in the world in which one cannot buy a single article that is not in perfect taste."